SOMEWHERE SOUTH OF SUEZ

A Novel

By

Gene C. McCoy

CHAPTER 1

Mogadishu, Somalia - 1965

Maggie Chandler lay quietly in the bed staring wide-eyed into the darkness. Over the soft purr of the air conditioning unit she could hear the slow, heavy breathing of her husband, Greg, lying beside her. The smell of scotch whiskey, the depth of his sleep, and the slow steady cadence of his breathing were reminders of the previous night's drinking bout, not that she needed anything to remind her. She thought about Greg's drinking a lot. He drank too much, too often. Everybody out here, including her, drank too much, too often.

For a long time she denied the extra drinks before parties, the increasing length of the cocktail "hour" on the nights they stayed home, and the, always, two or three more, after they came home on the too many nights that they went out. Lately, though, she could not deny it and she could not forget it. It was beginning to effect her life too much. There was less sex, and less conversation, and when they had either it was lousy.

There's too damned much entertaining at this post, she thought. For a piddling little non-country the diplomats here do an awful lot of giving and going to cocktail parties. There are more parties here than we had in Paris or Madrid.

The night before they had gone to a reception at the German Embassy, and if they had returned home when it ended at eight, things would have been fine, or at least better. On the way out, however, Mario Bianchi the First Secretary of the Italian Embassy, rounded up a group and invited them down to his beach hut for a swim and a night cap. Greg and Maggie had been in the group, and not unusually, it turned out to be considerably more than a night cap.

There had been no swimming until midnight when a secretary from the French Embassy stripped off her clothes, and ran naked into the sea while the crowd, by this time reeling with drink, cheered her on, and then stripped themselves and joined her. Maggie had stayed on the terrace watching them. The water had a sobering effect on them, and after ten or fifteen minutes they all, one by one, came sheepishly out of the sea, embarrassed and self-conscious as they pulled on their clothes. Shortly thereafter the party was over. Maggie drove home while Greg sat in the seat beside her, and to sooth his own conscience accused her of being puritanical and a "wet blanket." Incidents like this were becoming more frequent and it had left Maggie uneasy as she helped Greg into the house and finally bed, after "one last drink," that turned out to be two, both with three fingers of whiskey in them.

The early morning light filtered through the louvered shutters; Maggie glanced at the illuminated hands on the alarm clock beside the bed. It was almost five o'clock. There was no point, she knew, in trying to sleep any longer, nor would there be any love making. While Greg might have a case of the "hangover hornies," as he called his need to make love in the morning after a night of drinking, she was in no mood for it. She slipped carefully out from between the sheets of the bed, slid her feet into a pair of leather thong sandals, and pulled a terrycloth robe over her bare body.

In the kitchen she shuddered as a fat, dung-colored cockroach scurried for cover. "Christ," she muttered, "these damn bugs just grow bigger and stronger on DDT." Taking a can of coffee from the refrigerator, she made an extra-strong pot in anticipation of Greg's needing it, then poured a glass of canned grapefruit juice for herself. She twisted her nose and shuddered again at the bitter taste of the canned juice. What I wouldn't give for a glass of fresh California grapefruit or orange juice, she thought.

When the coffee had brewed, she poured a cup for herself, walked out of the kitchen to the living room and opened the long louvered French doors. The early morning air was still, cool and fresh; pushing the screen door open, she stepped out of the house onto the terrace and inhaled deeply. There was just a hint of the briny smell of the sea, and she thought again of California, and the rocky, wind-swept central coast where she had grown up. In California, at this time of year, the morning air would be filled with the scent of Monterey Cyprus, anise and wildflowers. She was homesick, she realized.

They had been out in Mogadishu for eighteen months, and this was the first time that she had gotten up at this hour. She was startled as the guard, who roamed their yard at night to protect them from burglars and other intruders, slipped out from behind a tree to investigate the noise. Once he saw that it was the mistress of the house he touched the red fez on his black head, gave a wide, white smile and padded away, tapping his stick on the pavement as he walked.

Standing at the edge of the terrace Maggie looked out beyond the wall of their compound. The dunes dropped of sharply toward the sea, and from their house, directly in front, she could see the small breakwater seawall and dock where the lighters that were used to unload the infrequent cargo ships that called Mogadishu were tied up. To the left was the strip of white sand that ran along the Lido in front of the beach huts. Offshore, some five-hundred yards, was the barrier reef. The tide was rising, and the foam from the waves breaking over the reef caught the first lavender and orange of the sunrise.

From this vantage point, above the filth and squalor of the narrow streets and open sewers of Hamar Uin, the souk, or market place section of town, the place looked almost beautiful in the fresh early morning breezes which left a welcome chill in the air. Within a few hours, the breezes would turn to the near gale-force winds of what is known in Swahili as the tangambili. These winds, like the North African Ghibli, drove the fine sands from the unpaved streets into every pore and orifice. By noon, under the unmerciful beating of the equatorial sun, the temperature would soar upward to over a hundred degrees.

Brushing an accumulation of sand from one of the porch chairs, Maggie sat down and took a sip of the fresh strong coffee, then placed the cup on a table beside her. Putting her legs up on another chair, she leaned back and closed her eyes. With both hands she pushed her hair back from the temples and ran her fingers through the sun-bleached strands. The hairdresser, she thought, I've got to go to the hairdresser. I've let myself deteriorate in this crummy place to the point that I hardly recognize myself. Moving her fingers over the skin below the eyes, she knew that if she looked in the mirror the effect of the past year's late hours, and too many cocktail parties, would show under the superficial appearance of health and youth created by a deep suntan.

The effect of the cool air and the quiet were soothing and she resolved to do this every morning. The solitude and being alone with her thoughts, away from the demands of husband and children, was therapeutic. No houseboys, cooks or ayahs falling all over her; no blaring hard acid rock music; no telephone calls from the wife of the Deputy Chief of Mission asking for help on this charity or that benefit. Yes, her reverie continued, from now on this will be just me, my hour to relax and prepare myself for the rigors of daily life. Maggie recalled a paragraph from one of Isak Dinesen's Winter's Tales, that she had just read:
I have always thought it unfair to woman that she has never been alone in the world. Adam had a time, whether long or short, when he could wander about on a fresh and peaceful earth, among the beasts, in full possession of his soul, and most men are born with a memory of that period. But poor Eve found him there, with all his claims upon her, the moment she looked into the world. That is a grudge that woman has always had against the Creator: she feels that she is entitled to have that epoch paradise back for herself.

Dinesen was a woman who loved Africa, she thought. Is there something wrong with me? Maggie asked herself. Her reverie was interrupted by the squeak of the screen door behind her. She turned to look back over her shoulder to see her five-year-old, Kathy, standing at the doorway holding a stuffed rag doll in her arms.

"I had a bad dream," Kathy whined. "A lion was in my room and was going to eat me up."

"That's silly, Kathy, you know a lion couldn't get into your room. There are bars on all the windows. Anyway a lion wouldn't want to eat you up. You're too sweet, and lions don't like sweet things. Come over here and sit on mommy's lap."

Kathy shuffled to where Maggie was sitting, and climbed into her lap. She leaned her head against Maggie's breast and fingered the gold cross and chain hanging around her mother's neck.

"Why are you here?" Kathy asked.

"What do you mean, why am I here? I'm here because Daddy's work is here, and I want to be with Daddy."

"No, I don't mean that. I mean why are you out here on the porch so early?"

"Oh," Maggie replied and slipped her arms around Kathy to hug her, "I just woke up early and decided to come out here and enjoy the morning breezes for a while. It's very nice this time of the morning. The sea is pretty; it's cool and it gives mommy a chance to collect herself before the day begins."

"What does collect yourself mean?"

Maggie rubbed her nose against Kathy's. "It means to get myself together before all of you little people come bursting out wanting your breakfast, and the houseboy tells me there is no soap, or the ayah says that your play clothes are all torn; just sort of resting up before I get into the day."

"Oh, that sounds nice. I think I would like to collect myself," Kathy said.

Their conversation was interrupted by the sound of the alarm going off in the bedroom where, Maggie was sure, Greg was still asleep. She slipped Kathy down and kissed her on the cheek. "You run get some slippers on while I go see what Daddy wants for breakfast."

As she walked toward the bedroom, Maggie found their cook, Yassin, standing in the kitchen doorway with a puzzled look on his face. "Good morning, Yassin," she said. "Is something wrong?"

"Good morning, Madam. No nothing wrong, but you already make the coffee?"

"Yes," she replied. "I already make the coffee." The fact that the usual routine had been varied meant that Yassin would need new instructions. There was no mechanism in his mind that would permit a deviation from previous instructions, no matter how generalized they might have been. He had memorized what he had to do from the moment he walked in the house until everyone was finished with breakfast, and if there was any variation in the routine, he could not think what had to be done next.

"What do I do?" Yassin asked.

"What do you mean, Yassin? You prepare breakfast as usual."

"But you have already make the coffee."

"Then you won't have to do that, will you?"

"No, Madam, but what should I do?"

"Well, let's see," she said, with exasperation creeping into her voice, "you could start by setting the table and getting the fruit ready. Let's just say that you do everything just like any other day, except you won't have to make the coffee. Okay?" She looked at him and smiled.

He smiled back at her. "Okay," he said nodding his head, "I see now." He turned and walked into the kitchen.

In the cool darkness of the shuttered bedroom, the window air conditioner was still whirring and Greg had pulled the pillow over his head with the hope that he could shut out the reckoning with the past. She sat down on the bed beside him and rubbed his bare back.

"Come on tiger, the party's over, and you've got to pay the fiddler."

"Can't pay, no resources, have to send me to jail," he mumbled from under the pillow.

She pulled the pillow off his head and he rolled over to show a bleary-eyed expression. "Why do we do these things to ourselves?" he asked, and swung his feet out onto the cold tile floor, then stumbled off to the bathroom without waiting for an answer.

From behind the closed bathroom door, Maggie could hear him cursing while he attempted to get the hot water flowing.

Periodically, the pipes in their ancient house, built during the Italian colonial period, filled with air, and the maneuvers required to get the hot water flowing were like something out of an Italian comic opera. First, you had to open the hot water tap in the wash basin, and both the hot and cold water taps in the bathtub. Then, by holding one's finger over the spigot of the tub, the cold water flowed into the hot water line, blowing out the air and causing the faucet on the wash basin to gurgle and spit until eventually a steady stream of water flowed into the wash basin. Thereafter, you could remove your finger from the spigot in the tub, and hot water would also flow from the shower. All of this was carried out while straddling the space between the tub and wash basin.

Fortunately, Maggie had not had to figure this operation out for herself. The wife of the previous couple who had occupied the house had written it down and left it for the next occupants. Maggie hoped that someday she might meet the woman so as to thank her for having recorded this as well as a number of other little idiosyncracies unique to the old house. It had made life easier for Maggie, and for the General Services Officer at the embassy. Maggie was sure that she would never have figured it out for herself, and would have had to call the GSO. She was not sure that the GSO, would have ever figured it out either.

Shaved, showered and dressed in a crisp, freshly laundered seersucker suit, a beautifully ironed blue, oxford cloth, button-down collar shirt and a regimental striped tie, Greg showed little trace of the previous night, save for a slight husky tone in his voice as he said good morning at the breakfast table. Like Maggie, his deep tan covered the lines and circles which are the inevitable result of excess.

He poked at his papaya, ordered a second glass of tomato juice and refused eggs. When there was time, he usually tried to catch the morning news on BBC or the Voice of America, but this morning he left the radio silent.

Maggie sat quietly while he ate and then, although knowing that she was inviting trouble said "Why don't you write that letter today, Greg?"

"Oh, Christ, Maggie, don't start that this morning. I feel lousy and we've gone over this same ground before."

"I don't doubt that you feel lousy," she snapped, "but that is getting to be a fairly regular condition, and I don't care if we have been over the same ground before. You know as well as I do that if you wrote to some of your friends in the Department, you could get a transfer out of this place."

"It's not all that easy," Greg said, taking a swallow of coffee. "They don't run the Service for the convenience of the officers, and you knew when you married me that it was not always going to be Rome, Paris and Madrid."

"Ba-loney," she said with the accent on the Ba, then continued with a tone of irony in her voice. "The good of the Service and convenience of officers - I've been a Foreign Service wife for ten years, and all of this crap about the 'good of the Service and convenience of officers' makes me want to throw up. I can't count the number of people that I've watched pull strings to arrange their assignments. There hasn't been anything important happen in this country in the last two thousand years, and it's not likely that anything important will happen in the next two thousand years, no matter how much you and the rest of the people sit up in that embassy pouring over your reports and polishing the language in them to describe the 'geopolitical significance of the Horn of Africa.'" Her tone had gone from irony to mocking a recurring phrase in the embassy's reporting cables and strategy statements. In the end her eyes filled with tears, and she removed a tissue from the pocket of her robe and dabbed at her eyes.

Greg looked at her for several moments, and he was glad that he was going to work. He knew that she was in a terrible mood, and even though he sensed that he ought to drop the conversation he continued. "You're a smart woman, Maggie, but I don't think you're qualified to discuss the geopolitical significance of the Horn of Africa, and I'm sorry that the Service makes you ill, but it has provided a pretty good life for all of us for a good number of years. The trouble with you, Maggie, is that you have a distorted view of reality. You think that all I have to do is cry a little bit, and say I don't like it here and someone will pat me on the head and say, 'oh fine, Chandler, where would you like to go?' But things don't work that way, and promotion panels don't look kindly on that kind of stuff. You want to have it both ways - reap all of the good and leave the bad to someone else."

"That's not true, Greg," Maggie replied. Her voice now softened. "I know you have to take the bad with the good, the bitter with the sweet, but there are plenty of time servers in your precious Service. You can name a few yourself who would be happy, even overjoyed, to come out here and vegetate. I love you Greg, and you are too vital and intelligent to waste away in this stinking hole. You're ruining yourself, and what's worse is that you're beginning to believe what you write in your damned reports."

He was on the verge of unleashing a salvo of what he considered to be the "facts," that would have included a suggestion that Maggie get interested in something besides his next assignment, but before he could continue, a horn sounded from the front of the house signaling the arrival of the car which came each morning to transport him to the embassy. He swallowed the last of his coffee, pushed his chair back from the table, and with briefcase in hand he left the house in an angry mood without saying goodbye to either Maggie or the children.

Their ten-year-old, Steve, had been sitting quietly during the discussion, and after Greg's departure he spoke to his mother. "Gee, Dad really was mad. How's come you and Dad fight so much, Mom? Don't you love each other?"

Maggie pushed her fingers through her hair and pressed her hands to her temples. Shaking her head from side to side she replied "Oh, Steve, I don't know. Maybe it's me." Looking at Steve, she smiled. "But of course we love each other, and don't let it bother you." She reached out and touched his hand. "Run along now, and catch your school car or you'll be late."

Steve slipped out of his chair, smeared a kiss on Maggie's cheek, and ran for the door.

"Don't forget to brush your teeth!" she called out to him, but he was already out the door.

She looked at her watch. It was only six-forty-five, and she felt like she had done a day's work even though the day had barely started. She finished her coffee, and pushed away from the table to return to the quiet of the darkened bedroom.

She stood for a moment in the cool stillness of the air conditioned room. The half light that filtered through the shutters, kept closed during the day as well as at night to keep out the heat, tempted her to crawl back into the bed. Instead, she slipped off her robe and let it fall to the floor and inspected herself in the full-length mirror hanging on the wall.

Ten years of marriage and two children had not damaged her figure, and she could still appear in public in a bikini bathing suit, as was evidenced by the strips of white flesh across her breasts and waist. Stepping closer to the mirror, she looked carefully at the skin around her eyes and concluded that she looked tired, but still attractive and appealing to men.

From this, her thoughts ran in a free association to something that she did not like to think about. It had been weeks since she and Greg had made love. It seemed that either there was a wall of hostility between them from the constant arguing and fighting, or they were too tired and dull from the round of parties to enjoy one another. Many the night that she had tried to arouse him in the early hours of the morning, but with no success so deep was his alcohol-induced sleep. She knew this had a bearing on her excessive nagging and pettiness, but then, as if the problem were either circular or too many sided to solve, she shook her head as well as the thoughts from her mind.

After bathing and giving the day's instructions to the cook, the houseboy and Kathy's ayah, or boyessa as they called them in Somalia, Maggie decided to go down to the beach with the hope that a swim, a walk on the beach, and some gossip with the other women in the Beach Club would restore some of the calm that she had felt earlier when watching the sunrise.

Driving in Mogadishu, Maggie had learned, was a test of patience, nerves and skill, that required dodging people, overloaded donkey carts, and the stray goats and cattle that wandered aimlessly looking for a blade of grass; she had also learned to keep her eyes fixed straight ahead, ignoring the outstretched hands of beggars and the snarling epithets hurled by the grimy ragged children who ran along beside the car each time she slowed. It was like running a gauntlet and she was always relieved when she turned into the parking lot of the beach club and saw the friendly face of the guard who touched his red fez and gave a warm welcome in hopes of getting some baksheesh from her when she left.

The Anglo-American Beach Club was an enclave of white colonial "standoffishness" that had survived the wave of African independence that placed these bastions of white separateness under attack. Even the few American blacks assigned to the U.S. Mission were not comfortable with the club's clear preference for an all white membership, and they, along with other non-whites in the expatriate community, belonged to the U.N. Beach Club that was farther down the Lido.

Pulling her Kenyan beach basket from the car Maggie walked out on to the sun deck, and was pleased to see that it was empty except for Pat Reynolds, an outspoken matronly American Southerner who was the acknowledged leader of the international women's community. Pat was the wife of Ben Reynolds, an American oilman who headed up an exploration team. Pat and Ben had been in the country longer than almost any other expatriates except the handful of Italian colonials who predated all other foreigners, and had a club of their own, as did the Russians, but for other reasons.

In the hierarchy of nationality cliques the Italians came first, followed by the "Brits," and then the French. The Americans, although the largest community, were considered neophytes on the African panorama, but were welcomed into the old established British clubs, in part, because of their linguistic affinity, but also due to their ability to shore up sagging finances.

The Anglo-American Beach Club, had originally been the British Beach Club. But during a period when the Brits had been kicked out of Somalia because they refused to support the Somali government in its running battle with neighboring Kenya over the Northwest Frontier District, to which the Somalis lay claim, it had become the American Beach Club while the Americans looked after British interests. When, just after Maggie and Greg arrived in Mogadishu, London reestablished diplomatic relations with Somalia, the club became the hyphenated Anglo-American Beach Club. Greg had been president of the club at the time, and had helped sort out the tangled ownership of the facilities, so Maggie enjoyed a special place with all of the local hired help.

Pat was well travelled and steeped in practical knowledge about the rigors of overseas living, and she rarely missed an opportunity to say what ever was on her mind. As Maggie approached Pat, Mohammed, the club's headman, rushed to set up a red, white and blue striped canvas chair beside where Pat was sitting. Maggie dropped her basket, pulled off her cotton shift and sat down in the chair.

"Hi, Pat, I see you're out early this morning, too."

Pulling off a pair of reading glasses, Pat folded her book and looked up. "Hey, Maggie. Yes, I get my sun in early. Although the morning sun is supposed to be bad for your skin, I find it's too blamed hot in the afternoons to even move out of the house. I haven't seen you for a while, Maggie. You look tired."

While some people were thrown off balance by Pat's frankness, Maggie liked it. There was never any pretense with Pat. "I am tired, Pat. Too many parties, and besides that, I got up with the sunrise this morning."

"So you're in that stage now. Let's see, I guess you have about a year here, don't you?"

Maggie laughed. "Actually a little more than a year. Almost a year and a half, but what do you mean by that stage?"

Pat picked up a package of cigarettes, shook one out and lit it. "You laugh, Maggie, but I've been here seven years, and I've observed that there is an almost predictable cycle that folks go through. First, it's sleeping in and the beach every afternoon, then when the newness wears off and the climate begins to get to you, the beach is dropped as a diversion. Then you start taking siestas, and shortly after this, because of all of the sleep you're getting, you start waking up with the sun. This lasts a while, and then it's back to sleeping in and siestas. All the while an anger is building up, and all you can think of is the day that you'll be leaving. This period is also marked in most cases by considerable friction between husbands and wives. At about this time it's a good idea to take something. Take up tennis, take a trip or take a lover, but don't take on your husband and don't take to drink."

Pat's homespun philosophy and insight cheered Maggie, and it gave her just the opening to discuss her own problems. "You're right about the friction between husbands and wives. Greg and I fight all of the time about the most trivial and silly things, but it's me too. I keep bugging him about getting a transfer out of here, but he doesn't want to do it."

"Why do you want him to get a transfer, Maggie?" Pat asked.

Maggie looked out toward the sea. Beyond the barrier reef a ship rolled in the long oily swells. It was discharging cargo into a lighter. Maggie examined her own inner self, for an answer to Pat's question, for that piece of cargo that she could offload and make herself feel better. "I don't know, Pat. It's just that I see the place as hopeless, and nothing we're doing here is going to make any difference." She turned to look at Pat. "I guess the truth of the matter is that I'm just bored, and I resent Greg's fooling himself into thinking that what he's doing is important."

Pat ground her cigarette into a shell ashtray. "And, if Greg's not doing anything important, then you're not doing anything important. All any of us women are here for is to be support troops, and who wants to support an operation that's not important in the first place. Right, Maggie?"

Maggie smiled again. "Right, Pat."

"I think you're right in saying that nothing that we're doing here is going to make a difference, and down deep inside Greg probably knows this as well as anybody, but don't expect him to admit it. Especially to himself."

"I don't see why, Pat. He's just fooling himself, and fooling yourself is not a good idea."

"That's just the way men are, honey. Did you ever watch your ten-year-old playing cowboys and indians? He's not playing. He really believes that he is either a cowboy or an indian. Men are just grown up little boys. They really believe in what they are doing. They have to believe in what they are doing, and to tell them otherwise is like telling a child there is no Santa Claus.

"You see, Maggie, we women know what we were meant for from the time that we're born, but a man has to find it out, and he does this through his work - so, if you tell him his work is not important, you're saying that he's not important. That's pretty hard for anyone to take.

"You and I know that if we go away from our homes for a week everything falls into disorder. We know how important we are. Do you think an office works the same way? In most cases, a man can leave his office to his secretary and it will run better than if he's there, but he'll never admit it. That's why, no matter how sick they are, they'll pull themselves down to their offices. For the same reason they'll put off taking vacations saying that they just can't get away because their work is too important. They prove how important they are everyday by just going to their offices."

"I wish things all fit together in my head as neatly as they do in your's, Pat," Maggie said. "Somehow or another I make things more complicated."

"If God had meant life to be simple, Maggie, he would have made it that way," Pat replied and lifted herself out of the chair. "I've given you enough of my cracker barrel theories, and I think I've had my quota of sun. You know, I really do worry about the aging effect of the morning sun." Pat dropped her book and her glasses in a straw bag. "I'll see you, Maggie."

"Bye, bye, Pat," Maggie said and held her hand up to her forehead to shade her eyes against the sun. "Thanks for the lecture. I guess they're things that I knew, but it's good to make them explicit once in a while. It sort of brings things into perspective. That's one of the troubles out here, I think. We all tend to lose perspective. I guess I'll take a walk along the beach and then have a swim before going home. Ciao."

Gene McCoy © July 1998

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