Vallejo Branch of the American Fuchsia Society

Basic Fuchsia Culture

The fuchsia culture cycle starts in the spring when the weather begins to warn and the frost period is over - generally in late January.  The cycle ends in late October when fuchsias go dormant for the winter.   A few general culture rules will increase your plant's beauty and the number of its blooms.

PRUNING AND REPOTTING

This is done at the start of the growth cycle in late January.   Prune back severely,  since fuchsias bloom on new wood.   If the nodes on the old wood are showing leaf buds, prune back to the second true node on the old wood. Repotting is generally done at the same time as pruning.   Cut away one inch of old soil around the outside of the root ball and replace it with new potting soil.

POTTING MIXTURES

The essential elements of any planting mix must provide good drainage and aeration.   Fuchsias also require a slightly acid potting medium.   Select any good commercial mix for potting. If the potting mix holds too much water, add either sand or perlite for better aeration.   If the potting soil dries out too quickly,  add a fine fir bark,  such as the type used for,  orchids.

WATERING

Fuchsias stored in the winter during their dormant stage should be provided some moisture and not allowed to become bone dry.   During the active growing period,  plants should be kept moist,  but not over-watered.   They should be watered whenever the soil appears or feels dry below the top layer. Potted plants should be given water until it runs out freely from the bottom drainage holes.   On hot or very windy days,  foliage can be misted or sprayed with water if the plants are in the shade.   Overhead watering should be avoided when plants are in direct sun to prevent foliage damage.

LIGHT AND SUN EXPOSURE

Avoid planting fuchsias in full sun or deep shade.   They need filtered sun to bloom.   All-day, highly-filtered sun from tall trees, lath structures or shade cloth is ideal.   The fuchsia will tolerate early morning sun until 10:00 a.m.,  but hot, full sun should be avoided.   Some fuchsias,  such as the oranges,  are more sun and heat tolerant.

FERTILIZATION

During dormancy fuchsias should not be fertilized.   When the fuchsia begins to show new leaves, a high nitrogen fertilizer such as Rapid Grow,  23-19-17, should be applied half strength weekly through May.   Apply full strength during June.   Starting in July use- a 15-30-15 fertilizer full strength weekly to produce blooms.   Once a month use Rapid Grow full strength.   This fertilization method should produce a plant with abundant growth and blossoms.

PINCHING

Pinching encourages bushy growth and more blossoms.  When new growth is about three inches long or has two sets of leaves,  pinch out the center tip. Two new branches will form from this pinch.  Continue pinching all the tip growth in this manner until the desired size and shape is formed.  It will take 6 to 8 weeks for blossoms to mature after the last pinching.

PESTS

The fuchsia gall mite has become the number one problem for fuchsias in this area.  The leaves and blooms on the affected plant shrivel and curl,  looking similar to peach leaf curl.  The best way to control this pest is to cut off all affected foliage.  Then use a spray that contains carbonyl or endoslilfan (the active ingredient in Thiodan).  Read the labels carefully and use the pesticides as directed by the manufacturer for best results.

Other pests include red spider mites, aphids, and white flies.  There are pesticides to control these pests.  Consult your local nurseryman for the best spray to use and follow the label instructions for the best results.

Last updated

06/16/00