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This is a German noble costume, as worn by my sister. (This is her best, "Someone wants to take another picture of me?!" face. It was late.)
The entire overdress is made with under three yards of 60" fabric. I hadn't realized how little there was on the bolt until after I had finished the bodice. The skirt arcs up at the front to expose the underskirt, which is slightly off-white satin with a 6" band of gold taffeta around the bottom. (I have found that gold taffeta goes very well with the color of the dust at Bristol.) The skirt is edged in a heavy matte gold cording and flatlined in maroon satin for a contrast where it pleats on the fall. The bodice laces at the front under the bustline, which is a common german fashion that I have run across. The sleaves are paned. Each pane is cut as two pieces (top and bottom), which are sewn together with flanged cording at the seam. This serves two functions. The cording makes the edge look nicer, but it also gives the panes the body they need so that they don't droop. The original design called for slashed satin sleeves for the lower arm, but it was well over 95 the weekend this was worn. The chemise is edged in gold lace at the top and on the cuffs. It is made of a light cotton with designs woven into it.
The hat is much mor reminiscent of the standard issue 'Henry VII hat' than any true german headress, but I have only ever found one german woman's hat that I would even consider asking someone to wear in public. They are not generally a pretty sight. The hat is made of black satin, piped in silver tissue lame (which I will never use again - it's a pain), and stretched over a form made of sheets of plastic foam. The tabs are then stitched together at their corners, so that they whole thing is pulled up around the cutouts. The inside of the brim is lined with marabou feathers, and topped with one great huge gold feather. The great thing about german costumes is their absolutely unabashed use of big Ostrich plumes. Trying to curl large feathers in a house with two cats, however, is a very dangerous occupation.
